The fruit that eluded Maii for years was ‘ulu, breadfruit in Hawaiian: hefty as a melon and green and bumpy all over, like a baby dragon waiting to unfurl. ‘Ulu is her birthright, a staple of her native Hawaiian ancestors and a canoe crop brought by the Polynesian voyagers who started settling the islands in the fourth century. Yet she rarely ate it as a child in the 1970s and 1980s in eastern Oahu. Hawaiian customs and food were still marginalized then, a legacy of colonialism.