If you’re John and Becky Altobelli of Kinderhook, N.Y., it’s easy to see corn’s beauty. On their family farm, the Altobellis grow a locally beloved corn that’s not just sweet but also full of flavor, the kind of singular taste one can describe only if you’ve had it. Fresh sweet corn, aromatic, savory and chamomile yellow, is less a constant for me than it is a seasonal treat, occasional sparks that have, over the years, made me go, “Oh, that’s what corn tastes like.”