That’s the effect of this silken tofu dressing, especially when it coats crisp winter chicories, like radicchio, escarole, endive and frisée. Creamy but with an organza lightness, it combines the umami of miso with nutty sesame paste for a deep richness, then sharpens the grounded savoriness with rice vinegar and garlic. The simple blender recipe comes from the chefs Travis Lett and Ian Robinson, partners in RVR (pronounced “river”), a Los Angeles izakaya that’s as much an award-winning destination (including being named one of The Times’s 50 best restaurants last year) as it is a warm neighborhood spot for its Venice beach community.