Gary has a reservation every Friday, but he likes to pop in on Monday or Tuesday, too—“so they don’t forget about me,” he said. “And to annoy them.” That he has the appetite for this is a feat. The menu at 4 Charles is an extravagant appeal to one’s inner child, which is to say that it could have been drawn up by Richie Rich. The baked potatoes are fully loaded, crowned with glistening lardons of maple-glazed bacon; the enormous hot-fudge sundae comes surrounded by piles of candy. Our server suggested a cheeseburger for the table, as a mid-course between sizzling shrimp scampi and a bone-in rib eye, and when it arrived she put on a white glove to cut it carefully into quarters.