Which is why I’ve ducked behind the Bund into the dense bamboo of Gucheng Park, to a pond where weeping willows sway over the still water. On the bank, a fragment of Shanghai’s old city wall buttresses a glass pavilion framed in rust-red steel: the One Step Garden cafe. I settle into a deep leather seat by panoramic windows and order a white-peach beer. The wi-fi is terrible; that’s the point. A beep-free environment where customers can admire the greenery is the ethos of One Step Garden.