Much as certain parties wanted to lay the blame for that at my feet, I can’t take the credit: the outlet in Westfield wasn’t just mediocre, it was so bad and made me so cross that a line from my review turned up on Have I Got News For You. “Tagliatelle with truffles is appalling,” I wrote, “a honking, salty swamp of a sauce, brown and dusty with nutmeg. Tiny chunks, not shavings, of tasteless black truffle lurk around, like mouse poos in soup.”