In truth, laminated potato dishes — by which I mean those constructed in layers, rather than anything to do with pastry technique — are an utterly brilliant idea that really rewards creative digression. The layered construction, combined with the flavouring liquid, means maximum flavour and textural impact from a cheap starch. The gentle steaming/poaching of the dish’s interior plus the fat-enhanced semi-frying of the outer surfaces is a combination in which the human animal is hard-wired to exalt. Laminated potato dishes are a balm to the senses. I kind of wish we’d collectively chosen some other dish to be fascistic about.