All over Europe, local grapes are being substituted for the international darlings Cabernet and Chardonnay. Austrians, for instance, are now intensely proud of their Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch and even Zweigelt. Throughout Italy the country’s myriad indigenous vines, notably but by no means exclusively Sangiovese, are being re-evaluated, and all those Supertuscans based on Bordeaux varieties now look rather old hat. French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc that might once have been regarded as “second tier” are getting the respect they deserve and can be found well outside their stronghold, the Loire Valley. Hotspots include the higher reaches of Mendoza in Argentina for Cabernet Franc and many a South African wine district for Chenin Blanc.