Compare this with Napa Valley. While its wine-producing history is far shorter than the millennia both Greece and Turkey could boast, the relative youth of its modern wine industry, just a few decades old, may be a factor in the admirable level of vintner co-operation there. In the 1970s, they were all forging a completely new path: turning cattle ranches into vineyards, uprooting walnut trees in favour of vines, uniting in their efforts to smash France’s wine hegemony. No wonder they worked together. At the forefront of this movement was Robert Mondavi, who founded the first new winery in Napa Valley in 33 years — and took the spirit of co-operation to an extraordinarily generous level.