“More than just a functional component, the bracelet is an expression of artistry,” says Universal Genève’s MD Gregory Bruttin of the precious metal bracelets that were once an identifying trait of Universal, a brand that is currently being revived by Breitling. Ahead of the relaunch in 2026, interest in the name has been stoked by special historic commemorative pieces, including a unique bracelet developed with Laurent Jolliet, “one of the last chaînistes in Switzerland. Historically, the brand has created some truly distinctive bracelet designs and with this tribute piece we wanted to revive that spirit.” According to Bruttin, Jolliet worked for more than four months on it. “Every link was individually crafted, woven and assembled using techniques that are nearly extinct.” But it was worth the effort: in the Phillips Geneva auction this May it sold for SFr71,120 (about £66,698), against a pre-sale estimate of SFr25,000-50,000, with proceeds going to support the future of the art of the chaîniste through classes led by Jolliet.