A consequence of quince being so difficult is that it’s often relgated to jams and preserves. Of course, these are tasty — Spanish membrillo is particularly good with Manchego — but the delicate flavour of the fruit becomes somewhat unidimensional. “Quince is usually shoved full of sugar to make it delicious,” says Adrian Forde-Beggs, head of creative at London’s Seed Library and Lyaness bars. “Most people’s interaction with it tends to be quince jelly.”