In the really old days, vines were grown alongside the many other crops and animals raised in the region, the coltura promiscua (“mixed cultivation”) that is enjoying reappraisal by some hardcore disciples of regenerative viticulture. From the 1960s, when wine-growing became a serious business, attracting well-heeled incomers, vineyards were deliberately sited on south-facing slopes to maximise ripening. Today, acknowledging rising summer temperatures, growers are starting to scout out suitable north-facing sites, and land in Lamole, the highest, coolest commune of all, is now keenly sought.